Pyrenees

We slept surprisingly well on the sleeper train last night and were in Cauterets just after 9 in the morning. After a quick coffee and croissant we picked up supplies and set off on the 1000m climb to Refuge d'Llheou (1988m). It was a hot relentless climb and when we arrived the refuge was closed, so no chance of a cold drink. We pitched the tent and were asleep by 9.

Awake at 8 but didn't actually start walking until after 10. Day started with a climb to Col d'Llheou (2227m) past our first patches of snow and a group of horses grazing. After the col it was a steep descent to the river where we stopped for lunch and replenished our water. Met quite a lot more walkers on this bit. Continued to Lac d'Estaing with the sound of thunder behind us in the mountains. At the lac we started the 10km walk along the road to Arrens-Marsous but had only managed a couple of kilometres before it started to rain; luckily we managed to hitch a lift the rest of the way. Booked into Gite Camelat for a couple of nights - day off tomorrow.

We decided to have a rest day. In the morning we managed to wander to the small shop before heading back to the gite to see to the washing. Unfortunately we had forgotten that it was sunday so by the time we went to look for lunch the local store and the bakeries were closed, we had to make do with our trekking lunch - saussicon and krisp rolls. Had a snooze in the afternoon before a good dinner at the gite.

We left Arrens-marsous at 9.30 after purchasing pain randonnez from one of the bakers. To start we had a 650m climb to the Col de Saucede (1525m). The going was steep go places but generally good, following a stream up to the col. We stopped for lunch and found that John's right heel was one big blister. We walked another 3 km or so, joining the road and managed to hitch a lift off a passing Israeli couple who took us all the way to Laruns where we eventually found a campsite. Given the state of John's foot we have decided to skip a couple of stages and so tomorrow will be catching the bus.

We decided to have another rest from walking today to let John's feet recover a little bit. 

We caught a bus northwards to Gan where we caught a train for the short journey westwards to Oloron-Sainte-Marie. From there we caught another bus heading south towards the mountains and got off at the little village of Etsaut. Here we were able to get a room at the hostel called La Gabure which is just behind the church. The hostel was clean and reasonably busy with other trekkers. 

In the evening we ventured out to the Le Randonneur, a small bar overlooking the village square. 

Today we decided to take it easy and went on a circular 10 km walk along the Chemin de la Mature. This is a path carved into the vertical side of a gorge by convicts in the 18th century as a supply route for trees to be used as masts by the french navy.

Tomorrow we might go to Spain.

Today was a day of bus journeys. 

Our first was the bus from Etsaut to Jaca, crossing into Spain on the pass near Canfranc. We had an hour or so In Jaca waiting for the next bus which took us on to Sabiñánigo. There we had a further wait as we changed buses to go northwards back into the mountains. 

We had hoped to get to Torla in one day but the changes were against us. So instead we decided to get reasonably close and caught a bus to Biescas. We checked into the Hotel Casa Ruba feeling a bit out of place with our large rucksacks. The hotel seemed very nice after a few days backpacking and we had a good meal in the dining room. 

We had a quick walk around Biescas but there isn't really much to see. 

Today we caught the short bus ride from Biescas to Torla. Walking down to the Rio Ara we crossed the bridge and arrived, gratefully, at Camping Rio Ara - one of our favourite campsites. 

It was pretty much exactly as we remembered it from 2004, still with the excellent facilities and campsite bar. 

After a lazy few days doing nothing much except walking into Torla from the campsite we decided to go for a day walk. 

We did a circular 12km walk around the Ordesa Gorge. We walked up to the Circo de Soaso where we stopped for lunch. We then climbed up to the Faja de Pelay which is a path high up (1900m) on the southe side of the gorge.

We finished the day with a steep, knee-straining 600m drop back down to the bottom before our walk back to the campsite. 

We left Torla after a few nights and caught the bus to Ainsa where we stayed for one night and had a very nice meal in a restaurant on Place Mayor near the castle. The next day we caught a bus to Barcelona. 

We didn't stay long in Barcelona as it was too busy and hot. Instead we went north to Girona where we managed to get a small self-catered appartment. We seem to be lucky as it was in a building which is in the process of being renovated. We had a look in the other rooms and they are just generic hotel rooms whereas ours has a bedroom, large lounge (with windows that open all the way back) and a kitched. We are staying here for the weekend. 

The photo is the view of the cathedral from our appartment which is in the old town - a very nice area full of twisting cobbled lanes, small bars and boutique shops. Last night there was a music festival, tomorrow there is the Fiesta de Sant Joan with a meal and bonfire.

After the weekend we will be heading back to Barcelona to get on board the Elipsos Trenhotel - our sleeper train to Paris.